Algae and barley straw in garden ponds part 3
Over the last 4 years or so barley straw has come into vogue as a means for solving suspended algae problems in ponds and particularly blanketweed algae problems. However discussion was almost always superficial, word of mouth or anecdotal.
Algae and Barley Straw ... Turning Theory Into PracticeNow we are acquainted with the theory lets understand what has to be done to make the theory work and get rid of that blanketweed. Barley straw is the best type of straw to use it appears. Before getting too excited barley straw is no quick fix and patience is required along with a dab of perseverance. At least you can get stuck in with confidence though.
Not all straws seem to work well and barley straw is definitely preferred, Maize, lavender, wheat, and linseed also work as substitutes ... for my money though I would use barley straw especially since the time period for success can be weeks even months. There is no point in trying second best under these circumstances. Barley hay or still green straw must not be used since this will tend to pollute the water rather than decay beneficially as required by virtue of the still fresh" organic nutrients that could make matters worse for you and better for the algae.
Based upon evidence suspended algae forms succumb within about 6 to 8 weeks after placing the straw into position. However filamentous or string algae (blanketweed) control seems to take considerably longer and may even take more than a full season (Spring through Winter), unless treatment is started very early in the year. However bear in mind if the water is too cold the activity of breaking down the straw is very slow. Nevertheless treatment should certainly be started early and before the algae gets a good start. Remember that the action of barley straw is to prevent rather than kill algae growth.
Straw Activity Needs Oxygen To Work
Here I go again. The rotting of barley straw to create the algae interruption process can only take place in the presence of well-aerated water. Failure to have sufficient oxygen will produce undesirable chemicals and not the traces of hydrogen peroxide we seek.
For this reason the straw must also be placed into the pond in the right place and in the right form.
The straw should be loose not firmly packed so that water/oxygen/straw contact takes place continuously.
The straw should be placed where maximum aeration takes place ... close the waterfall for example or the fountain.
Since sunlight is required and most algae activity is in the upper levels of the pond the straw must float at ALL times ... this means artificial floatant devices are required since left to its own resources rotting straw will sink.
In practice the straw should be placed into a very loosely packed net inside of which some expandable polystyrene or similar foamed material should be placed to create buoyancy ... small air-filled plastic bottles make good floating aids.
To keep the straw in the ideal place anchor it with a weight tied to a length of fishing line or something similar.
The presence of mud in the water will inactivate the important chemicals so do the best possible to remove mud precipitants. In cases where this is difficult to control then increasing the amount of straw is important.
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